Charles Houston is best known for his failed attempts to summit K2 in 1938 and again in 1953. The latter climb involved a dramatic rescue attempt of climber Art Gilkey and featured probably the most famous belay in history when Pete Schoening single-handedly kept the entire team from sliding off the mountain. Climbing was an important part of Houston's life and McDonald's biography of him does an excellent job covering his career. Beginning with his discovery of the French Alps and the confidence climbing gave him in his awkward teenage years and continuing to his Alaskan and Himalayan expeditions, Houston's mountaineering life makes for great outdoor reading.

But what makes this biography so enthralling is the attention it devotes to the rest of Houston's life, in particular his medical career. Houston was a pioneer in high altitude medicine working first for the Navy and then later with the High Altitude Physiology Study (HAPS) on Mt. Logan in Canada. In between, he had organized the Peace Corps in India, founded the doctors unit of the Peace Corps, researched artificial hearts, taught at universities, and was one of the founders of group medical practices in the United States. In all it was an outstanding career and one that deserves recognition far beyond what he has received for his climbing adventures.

But Houston's life also saw many setbacks. Ever an idealist and a visionary, he could be difficult to work with. He certainly never mastered the political skills needed to be successful in Washington. Indeed, towards the end of his remarkable career, a college friend suggested he make a graduation speech. His perseverance in the face of a lifetime of failures, a friend suggested, would make a good message for contemporary graduates. Grudgingly, Houston agreed, and accepted the commencement address offer.

This volume includes a DVD with footage from some of Houston's more dramatic climbs. It adds a nice touch to the book. I would recommend the book for climbers and armchair afficiandos of the sport. (I am in the latter category). But I think the book also summarizes a significant contribution to the history of American medicine and deserves a wide academic audience for those interested in that field.