A Perfect Red : Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire
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| A Perfect Red : Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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In the sixteenth century, one of the world's most precious commodities was cochineal, a legendary red dye treasured by the ancient Mexicans and sold in the great Aztec marketplaces, where it attracted the attention of the Spanish conquistadors. Shipped to Europe, the dye created a sensation, producing the brightest, strongest red the world had ever seen. Soon Spain's cochineal monopoly was worth a fortune. As the English, French, Dutch, and other Europeans joined the chase for cochineal -- a chase that lasted for more than three centuries -- a tale of pirates, explorers, alchemists, scientists, and spies unfolds. A Perfect Red evokes with style and verve this history of a grand obsession, of intrigue, empire, and adventure in pursuit of the most desirable color on earth. |
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| 07-03-08 | 5 | (NA) |
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I agree with the critics who claim this book . . . "a delightful, rollicking history, a fun read and well supported by research". Greenfield's account is entertaining as well as informative, not a book to put you to sleep as some histories are. I read it as a library book and decided it is a 'must have' in my library. Although her style is professional, the read is easy - no big words to look up in order to understand the full meaning. Her account of world events is so insightful and complete, you come away with more than an appreciation of how color has changed the world An understanding of world history in general is gained, both political and economical. I especially loved the personal stories that added so much interest for me.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2009-01-02 09:11:14 EST)
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| 03-29-08 | 5 | (NA) |
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I live in Oaxaca, Mexico and even many people here are not aware of the impact of cochineal on the Spanish Empire and Europe. This book is fascinating! And well written.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2008-07-03 23:28:57 EST)
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| 09-26-07 | 5 | 1\1 |
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This was one of two books a friend traveled across the country to share with me. I am so glad she did. I would never have picked up this book on my own. I have a terrible time finding non-fiction works that are interesting - unless they are recommended. I look at the table of books and decide something looks good. Then when I get it home, I have a hard time getting to my 100 page allowed stopping point.
Greenfield does a wonderful job of describing the importance of the color red throughout history and the different compounds used to create it. With a focus on the cochineal originating in Mexico, this book covers the fortunes of Spain and the industry itself. Weaving the domestication of cochineal with the efforts of other countries to destroy Spain's monopoly, the book moves quickly. there were very few sections of the book where I was willing to put it down. Yes, I could stop at the chapters, but I only once put it down while in the middle of a chapter. I highly recommend this book - and if I didn't have to send it back to its owner, I would keep it in the library. I will be recommending it to my mother for her book club. With their focus on women authors and a mix of fiction and non-fiction, this book will give them much to discuss. (Review Data Last Updated: 2008-03-30 20:15:51 EST)
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| 06-03-07 | 4 | (NA) |
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Some of the best stories are the histories of everyday objects that few ever consider. This book is an example of such a story. It traces the history of the color red; specifically, it examines the sources of red dye sought by humans over the past 700 years. Something as simple as a color can actually be quite difficult to obtain without the marvels of modern technology. This book starts of at the Venetian textile guilds of the late Middle Ages and shows the reader the state of the world's textile industry. Of all the colors, bright red is hardest to produce on clothing, and individuals and governments devote a lot of time and effort to procure new sources. Many are found, but the best one is carminic acid found in the insect cochineal, native to the Americas, and cultivated in Mexico specifically to obtain the color red. Starting with the Spanish conquest, red dye from Mexico is exported to the rest of the world, and four centuries of trade wars and political intrigue follow. The book lays all this out in chronological order, citing places, people, governments and institutions. But eventually, man's technology caught up with nature's bounty, and by 1900, synthetic red dyes destroy the cochineal cultivation industry. All the ensuing technical advances, scientific discoveries, and commercial contests are detailed clearly by the author. The book ends with a survey of the dye industry at the end of the 20th century, and a review of how red dye has influenced, and been influenced by fashion tastes throughout the centuries. This book touches many countries, and ties in history, economics, fashion, politics and science into a wonderful tale of man's obsession for a specific color.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2007-08-02 02:39:26 EST)
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| 09-16-06 | 5 | 2\2 |
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This book is one of the very best I have seen in a long time. The author has taken great care to present historically correct and detailed information about the long history of cochineal farming, and sale of this commodity (dried beetles that can be processed to create a brilliant hue of red).
She reveals all of the intrigue of Spain's royalty, as they sought to keep this much prized product of New Spain exclusively for the Spanish empire. Even Perkin's discovery of the color "mauve" is discussed. This book will find broad interest among scholars and the general public. It is certainly a book worth owning, if you love the history of textiles. Patricia Cummings (Review Data Last Updated: 2007-04-12 03:01:57 EST)
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| 09-15-06 | 5 | 2\2 |
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This book is one of the very best I have seen in a long time. The author has taken great care to present historically correct and detailed information about the long history of cochineal farming, and sale of this commodity (dried beetles that can be processed to create a brilliant hue of red).
She reveals all of the intrigue of Spain's royalty, as they sought to keep this much prized product of New Spain exclusively for the Spanish empire. Even Perkin's discovery of the color "mauve" is discussed. This book will find broad interest among scholars and the general public. It is certainly a book worth owning, if you love the history of textiles. Patricia Cummings (Review Data Last Updated: 2007-04-11 03:01:59 EST)
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| 08-10-06 | 5 | (NA) |
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A Perfect Red is history at its best: examine something seemingly insignificant, let it take you down its byways and tangents to myriad interconnections, and soon you have a world history in miniature.
A Perfect Red is primarily concerned with the age old desire for bright colors, especially red. In the 16th century Europeans discovered a new source from the Americas which would provide a beautiful shade of dark crimson: cochineal. Over the next several centuries cochineal became one of the most prized imports from the New World until chemical dyes became commonplace in the 19th and 20th centuries. Amy Butler Greenfield writes well, not just about cochineal and its uses, but about the economics and politics behind the search for the perfect red. She also does a good job examining the cultural changes which made red highly desireable, then a color to be avoided as a symbol of sin and decadence. Furthermore, she is a skilled depictor of personalities and draws shrewd portraits of the many fascinating characters involved in the story of cochineal. Highly recommended. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-11-09 03:12:11 EST)
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| 06-21-06 | 5 | (NA) |
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Facts are usually stranger than fiction, and this book supplies one more proof. The sheer ineptitude of some of the government ministers, the luck of some of the explorers, and the same mistakes being repeated over and over again, would be unbelievable if written as fiction, but this is history.
This book primarily covers the exploration, and exploitation of Cochineal (a small bug from South America that produces one of the best of all natural red dyes). There is mention of the earlier trade in Kermes (a similar red dye producing insect from the mediterranean) and other red dyes such as Madder, but it is primarily covering the rise and fall of the Spanish Empire and its monopoly on Cochineal. The book also covers uses of Cochineal in the post chemical dye age. A note to members of the SCA and other re-enactors, this book, while worth buying, and very interesting, does more heavily emphasize the time period *after* Queen Elizabeth the first. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-11-09 03:12:11 EST)
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| 02-15-06 | 4 | (NA) |
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I found the accounts of our relationship to color quite fascinating---what color means to us, how that meaning changes according to fashion and society. Finished the book and that night wore a red dress and red shoes to a Valentine's Day event. I was never so aware of red! I will look at color differently from now on.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-11-09 03:12:11 EST)
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| 01-06-06 | 5 | 3\3 |
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Mrs. Greenfield (seems like she should be a Redfield) has written a wonderful example of how popular history should be written. She has an eye for the telling detail yet gets the big picture, and skillfully weaves the anecdotal with the grand. Her exposition of the importance that textiles, and by association, coloring dyes influenced post-Renaissance Europeans in their quest for wealth is a must-read for anyone interested in social or technological history. I would have liked to hear more about the color red aside from cochineal, and she does provide some of that, but not to the extent of, say, "Blue - The History of a Color." Conspicuously, since she is a redhead herself, she does not delve into the myths and stigmas associated with carrottops. Perhaps she will follow up her charming tome with a more detailed description of my favorite color.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-11-09 03:12:11 EST)
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| 12-20-05 | 5 | 3\3 |
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A fascinating book on a subject you would not at first pick to read about. Economics, conquest, espionage, art, royalty, national pride and local survival, farming, cloth making, science and invention all brought together in not only a well researched but very well written book that moves strongly throughout and finishes well. A history of a bug that becomes almost as valuable as gold and silver, from the 1500s to present day. If you like to read, this is a very good book, which surprised me considering the topic. 261 pages of story text, well worth the look.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-11-09 03:12:11 EST)
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| 10-01-05 | 4 | 5\5 |
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Red is such a common colour that we take it for granted. Red adorns the merchandise of Manchester United, Ferrari and a host of lesser brands - even our underwear. It also epitomised one of the dominant political ideologies of the 20th century - the "Reds", aka Communists.
It is difficult to accept that until relatively recently red was associated with wealth and power. Cost, and sometimes regulations, placed red clothing beyond the reach of most people. In the 18th century the best red dye (cochineal) was a valuable and mysterious commodity - and a major import from the Spanish New World to Europe. Was cochineal a seed or an animal? The argument was finally settled as a result of a wager. Early microscopists such as Leeuwenhoek got involved on the side and the result was some of Leeuwenhoek's most exquisite drawings. These are reproduced in the book. Another compelling story, with resonances in our own day, concerns the destruction of the cochineal industry by cheaper synthetic dyes in the 19th century. In 1870, Guatemala produced over 1.5 million pounds of cochineal a year, almost exclusively by small farmers using very labour intensive methods. By 1890, Guatemalian farmers had virtualy ceased production. The same was true for the other major producers in Mexico and the Canary Islands. Such massive changes in an important industry led to major social and economic disruption. Modern trade practices often have similar effects in many poorer countries. However, the story of cochineal does not end there, and has a slightly happier ending in the 20th century. But you will have to read the book to find out how. I must admit to an addiction to this genre of books on the history of ordinary things. However, some of these books pad out a meagre story with marginally relevant material. "A Perfect Red" does not fall into this category. Today the advertising industry still imbues red with a sense of power, unconsciously harking back to the days when cochineal was the most powerful red of them all. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:08 EST)
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| 09-28-05 | 5 | 3\3 |
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Sorry if the title of the review sounds a little buggy, but this book tells the fascinating story of how a dye derived from a tiny insect affected both ancient and emerging empires. Domesticated by the Aztecs for use as a coloring agent, the cochineal insect (Dactylopius coccus) was a frail species of scale that fed on the nopal cactus. The Spanish conquistadors that invaded Mexico in the 1500's initially were ignorant of the huge economic impact that cochineal dye could have for them personally and for the Spanish empire but Spanish merchants eventually made cochineal one of the dominant economic exports from the New World. The secrecy surrounding cochineal production and the frail nature of the insect kept the highly desired dye in the hands of the Spanish empire until the nineteenth century when Mexican independence and exports of insects to a couple of countries with favorable growing conditions caused the loss of the monopoly. In the interim, the huge demand for the dye resulted in significant international conflict and intrigue. The market for cochineal collapsed after the Germans patented red dyes derived from coal tar chemistry but its legacy lives on. For example, Rembrandt's "The Jewish Bride" was painted with cochineal pigment instead of paints such as Alizarin crimson that have largely supplanted it. The author is to be highly commended for the quality of the scholarship and the excellent writing.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:08 EST)
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| 09-07-05 | 5 | 3\3 |
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Rebeccasreads highly recommends A PERFECT RED as a lovely saga that reads like a thriller with tons of quirky history, insider insights & a broad view of merchants, explorers, national politics & major blunders in a world we rarely think about -- the empires, secrets & societies of cloth dyers.
With luscious color plates illustrating the progression of the reds artists down the ages have used, we follow the trail to a minute bug which lives on one specific plant in one specific spot on earth, & the race to possess them, & their secrets. Along the way, you will learn about how colors & empires are "made", & how fortunes are lost. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:07 EST)
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| 07-20-05 | 5 | 8\8 |
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Amy B. Greenfield spoke at my local bookstore as this book was debuting, and boy is she, and her book, fabulous. She brought a jar of dried cochineal beetles to show everyone, as well as a half-dozen silk scarves she herself had dyed with cochineal. The four years of research she invested in this bewitching story are evident not only in the accuracy and thoroughness of her book, but in the riveting writing itself. She is clearly enamored of the subject, and seduces the reader into a shared state of fascination. _Red_ is without question the loveliest nonfiction I've read in years.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:07 EST)
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| 06-28-05 | 5 | 5\5 |
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This book is both informative and entertaining, it reads like a novel and if you want more information, the notes, which are hidden on the last pages, give access to a thorough academic research. But this is not ONLY and academic book. Cochineal is present even in the irresistible red of Campari and has been used by Renaissance masters and Mexican artisans since time immemorial to this very day. Highly recommended.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:07 EST)
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| 06-26-05 | 5 | 4\5 |
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Amy Butler Greenfield's first novel is terrific read. She has the perfect balance between scholarship and passion. Her grandfather and greatgrandfather were dyers and her love of the subject shows through the text. Unlike most texts, where one is left wondering "Where did the author find that?" The Perfect Red has a marvelous set of notes at the end of the book, allowing the reader to research any particular point of extreme interest.
As to the writing itself. . . she either has an amazingly terse style or a marvelous ear for proofreading. My pet peeve is books that chat to the reader, requiring five pages to impart one page of knowledge. There is none of that here. Every sentence belongs, expanding the tale she weaves. In addition, her characters come alive. After I finished reading this book, I felt I garnered more than information, I also knew the people whose stories she told. Van Eyck's Portrait of a Man had always intrigued me. I taught Humanities and the students often asked "Why the red turbin?" Now I know. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:07 EST)
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| 06-03-05 | 5 | 13\13 |
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In recent years, there have been published a number of excellent books about the history of color, including monographs focusing on natural and coal tar dyes. Amy Butler Greenfield's book stands at the very top of this list. Her focus, cochineal, is an extraordinary red dyestuff so aggressively coveted that in directed international trade and politics for centuries. The story that Butler Greenfield tells rests on an impressive mountain of scholarship that is hidden from the reader by wavy prose that carry us effortlessly between the colonial European powers and the locales in the West Indies and the Spanish Main where the cochineal beetle was cultivated. Even better however are the extensive notes and bibliography that are indeed available at the end of the book, aspects of popular history all too often omitted by publishers. HarperCollins should be congratulated for fully embracing the sources. Butler Greenfield is an excellent historian, an inspired writer, a natural story teller, and not a bad chemist either. A Perfect Red will be enjoyed by those who merely enjoy rip-roaring tales of conquest and piracy, as well as by those with a deeper interest in science and cultural history. It strikes a perfect balance between great fun and great learning. It has my highest recommendation.
(Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:07 EST)
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| 05-19-05 | 5 | 25\26 |
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Red is just a color; if we want a red shirt, red paint, or red curtains, we just go out and buy them, as we would articles of any other color. It may be that red is a special color, with associations of blood or anger or desire, but as a mere pigment, it isn't anything unusual. That was not the case in past centuries. In fact, red bankrolled the Spanish empire and prompted the growth of science at the expense of belief in an all-explaining Bible. It is surprising that a history can be written about a color, but in _A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire_ (HarperCollins), Amy Butler Greenfield has opened up an extraordinary story, and one that still touches us today. It is the history of our interaction with Dactylopius coccus, an insect that parasitizes a particular cactus in tropical America, an insect better known as cochineal. It turns out to be one of the most important insects in history.
There were reds before the New World was discovered. Dyers and artists were able to make plants and minerals yield russets and orange-reds fairly easily, but real red cloth was hard to manufacture. A more vivid red could be made from insects, like oak-kermes, that could be killed with vinegar and steam, and packed up to sell to dyers the world over. The dyers didn't know it, but these insects contain what is now known as carminic acid, a powerful red dye. It is this dye that the cochineal insect has, too, but it is far more powerful and less fastened to troublesome lipids. The conquistadors saw the colors that were produced in cloth in the new world, and brought back the dye to Spain starting in 1519. By 1580, kermes reds were out and cochineal reds were in. Spain profited from many New World finds, but the new dye was a chief one. Even pirates were glad to rob Spanish galleons for it. Commercial espionage was involved in trying to transplant it to other colonies. Cochineal provided naturalists with a problem in classification. As they did with other New World novelties, Europeans tried to find categorical guidance from the Bible, but the book did not help settle the question of whether the little pellets from which the dye was made came from plants, animals, or even something in between (a "wormberry"). Classic writers didn't help, either. Greenfield discusses the microscopy of Leeuwenhoek and others which eventually helped settle the issue in a scientific way. The cutthroat competition in cochineal ended when William Perkin invented his famous mauve dye from coal tar products in 1856, leading to a revolution in dye chemistry. The market for the insects collapsed, but never vanished. There are those who favor "natural dyes" (although this group has a subcategory of people who would not countenance killing even insects for them). Bakers used to use cochineal "to make the apple and the gooseberry outblush the cherry and the plum," and it still is used in candy, ice cream, lipstick, and much more. (Perhaps we are only squeamish about eating insects if they are whole.) The main supplier these days is Peru, but there is competition from other countries, among them the ones where the cloak-and-dagger operations had transplanted the cactus and insects centuries ago. Greenfield's detailed study casts a welcome rubicund light on in biology, history, fashion, chemistry, and world economics. (Review Data Last Updated: 2006-06-07 13:37:08 EST)
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